Monday, July 16, 2012

Buckhorn - Stanley

(NOTE #1 : We did not collect any GPS points for this map section during our 2010 field work.  We did spend portions of two field trips in June and July 2012 visiting the area shown on this map.)

NOTE #2: Note that there is significant overlap between the Buckhorn-Stanley map and the Stanley-Mormon Bend map.  Some of the topics listed below could easily be put onto the following map page.)

Gold Creek is the upper most placement of one of the unified, thematic "Salmon River Signs."  Since it is on the map, it does bear some description in the guide.  It is not a convenient RAP and parking is very limited.

Note that in June 2012, Boise's Idaho Canoe Club (an ACA affiliate) conducted a large scale day float on a this section of The Salmon River.  The group put in near Decker Flat and took out below Gold Creek.

The Sawtooth Hatchery and Kids Pond definitely deserve some descriptive narrative on this map page.  The IDFG trout stocking program is definitely worth a mention on this or or in conjunction with the next map page.

Buckhorn Bridge is occasionally used as a River Access Point.  The SNRA maintains a registry box for the free self-issue river permit here.  It is the upper most such registry box on The Salmon River within the SNRA.  The area receives heavy fishing pressure during any given chinook salmon fishing season.

The SNRA has a dispersed "no fee" camping program that stretches from near Buckhorn Bridge down river to Stanley.  Sites are marked by a standard sign and a fire ring.

We feel it would be advisable to describe the stretch of river between Buckhorn Bridge and Stanley.  However, there may be some liability issues in providing too specific of a description of this stretch.

We believe it is very dangerous at medium-high to high water.  Likewise, boating or floating this stretch at low water could be equally dangerous in different but significant ways.  We talked with people who have run this stretch so we know it is definitely runnable with the proper skills and equipment.  A swim at higher flows would almost inevitably be as much as a mile in length with very cold, potentially hypothermic water temperature.  The rocks are shallow, the current is extremely swift and the potential for ankle entrapment is very high.  Although the current speed is much less at lower water, the water is still moving swiftly.  Ankle entrapment might even be more of a danger at lower water.  Anyone swimming at lower flows is highly likely to suffer bumps and/or bruises.

We looked at this stretch at high water June 18 and decided it was not worth the risk to run it.

Redfish Lake, Redfish Lake outlet and the Redfish Lake outlet confluence are all three potentially worth a mention on this page.

Sunny Gulch Campground might be worth a mention, too.  Many of the SNRA's designated dispersed camping spots are located between Buckhorn Bridge and an up river point close to the Stanley Ranger Station.  They are some of the best available "no fee" camping spots anywhere along The Salmon River inside the SNRA.

Here are some additional topics for consideration for this map page:

Endangered sockeye salmon
Salmon headwaters
Sawtooth geology
Glaciers
SNRA's formation & purpose
Stanley
Salmon River Bridge RAP
  The SNRA maintains a self-issue river permit box here.  This is one of the more undeveloped and primitive RAPs on The Upper Salmon River.  There is no toilet, parking is unorganized and it is very rough and dusty. The nearby bridge is basically private property.  At low flows it is very difficult to launch a larger boat here because the river is very shallow next to shore.  Boat must be pulled over rocks out into the main current to reach water deep enough to float.  The river deepens at the confluence with Valley Creek.  However, it is still wide and shallow and boats can easily hang up on the underlying alluvium.
Valley Creek
Lower Stanley
The best photo op on the river
  There are numerous location in and near Lower Stanley from which to capture the classic boating photo.  The paddler(s) are in the foreground and a fine horizon of jagged Sawtooth Mtns. are in the background.
Four Aces
Stanley Museum
Stanley Interpretive & Historical Association

Of particular note here is the major change in the river's direction.  Up to this point (end of Map Sheet #1), The Salmon River has been essentially flowing northward.  At Stanley, the river turns and begins to flow generally eastward.  This major bend in the river is one of the major such bends along the entire length of The Salmon River from headwaters to confluence with the Snake River hundreds of miles downstream.

Either the Buckhorn-Stanley or Stanley-Mormon Bend maps are really the only two logical places to discuss the Sawtooth Mountains and Valley.  Since there is ample pre-existing interpretive material widely available for both topics, we would suggest a focus on the role of glacial geology in the fluvial characteristics of The Salmon River here.

It is very interesting to note that the alluvium in the Buckhorn-Stanley stretch is much larger in diameter than below Stanley.  Also the Valley Creek alluvium is much smaller diameter than The Salmon River's alluvium above Stanley.  An explanation of this phenomena could be easily tied into general comments about the Sawtooth Mountains and Valley.

Stanley - Mormon Bend

The question does arise here as to whether to include information about Valley Creek.  Boise Idaho Canoe Club did conduct a group float of Valley Creek this June.  ICC contacts indicated it is an annual activity eagerly awaited by club members.  Photos of the club's Valley Creek float indicated the June stream flow appeared sufficient for a variety of water craft types.

Many of the topics listed on Map #1 could easily be shifted to this map page instead. Rather than relist them here, please consult Map #1 (Buckhorn to Stanley)

The Stanley to Mormon Bend stretch is very popular with beginning and novice paddlers.  It is generally considered safe at higher, fast flows as long as novice paddlers understand where the takeout is located at Mormon Bend.

At lower, summer flows, all manner of informal flotation devices are seen on various portions of the Stanley-Mormon Bend stretch from inner tubes to swimming pool flotation rings.  The summertime level of this stretch is very low and fishermen are often encountered fly fishing in waders from the middle of the river channel.  The stretch is seldom out of sight of the highway and there are ample pullouts for parents to check on their children.

This would be a great map page on which to include a geologic description of the Idaho Batholith.

There are three campgrounds upriver fro Mormon Bend, two on river left and one on river right, Casino Creek.  There is a small informal river access point at the very up river edge of Casino Creek Campground suitable for ingree and egress with small, easily portable, lightweight flotation devices.

Access to and from the river at the campgrounds on river left is less convenient than at Casino Campground.
There is also informal access at the river left end of the Casino Creek Bridge.

The SNRA closes various portions of The Salmon River each August-September to protect spawning salmon.  Perhaps a mention of these closures needs to be made on one or more of the map pages inside the SNRA.

The Mormon Bend RAP is a very highly developed RAP with all the amenities, ample parking, excellent turning radius and a very wide, accommodating boat ramp.  However, first time users will not necessarily see the actual boat ramp until they are right on top of it.  If they are positioned too far into the right side of the river's channel, they may be unable to traverse left quickly enough to reach the boat ramp.  At lower summer flows this is not much of a problem.  At higher spring flows this could easily become problematic.  It is advisable for first time paddlers to actually take a look at the Mormon Bend boat ramp and familiarize themselves with the up river topography.

When we have put in first time paddlers here, we always give them ample warning of this issue and then stand at the water edge at the boat ramp to wave them in upon their arrival.

There is a geothermal resource on this stretch of river.  We would recommend not calling attention to this spot in the formal guide.  Parking is barely sufficient for one vehicle.  Physical access to the metal sphere that holds the hot water is tenuous and possibly dangerous.  We feel it's best left unmentioned.

This map page contains the most popular of The Salmon River campgrounds down river form Stanley.  It might be a good place to mention that they are managed by a licensed concessionaire and that numerous spots in each campground can be reserved online through Recreation.Gov.

The other descriptive issue that comes into play here is whether to note and/or describe smaller side streams.

For example, Casino Creek is obviously going to get mentioned because there is a bridge and a campground bearing that name.  Should a note be made of the extend of its watershed?  We are of the opinion that only truly major tributaries deserve more than a passing mention in this guide but there's a fine line between which tributaries to choose for a more extensive description.

We suggest that BLM Staff use a larger scale map of The Salmon River and "red X" the tributaries they feel are important enough to merit more than a passing mention of the confluence.

Mormon Bend _ Robinson Bar

The most significant issue with this map section (and the one that follow) is they they do not "break" at a usable spot.  This map section ends slightly down river from The Narrows.  The next map section begins slightly above The Narrows.  We realize it is probably not practical to re-design the maps at this point so they would break at the Elk Creek RAP.  It will be very important to note on both maps that the "break" between the two does not denote any sort of RAP or informal access of any kind.  There is none.

The large Green Dot seems to imply there is a RAP at Robinson Bar.  Such is not the case and will be discussed in greater detail on the Robinson Bar - Thompson Creek narrartive

Obviously, three campground and one RAP are shown on the lower (beginning) portion of this map.  The salient points that can be discussed here are:

Basin Creek
General river channel characteristics
The Rough Creek Bridge
Shotgun Rapid
Sunbeam Hot Springs
Sunbeam Dam
Sunbeam Dam Rapid
Sunbeam Village
Yankee Fork
Yankee Fork RAP
Yankee Fork USGS stream gauge
Elk Creek RAP
Piece of Cake Rapid
General stream channel characteristics below Piece of Cake
O'Brien Bridge
Coyote Mining
Upper O'Brien Campground
Lower O'Brien Campground
Indian Riffles & Overlook
Mandatory portage period
Spawning salmon
Robinson Bar
The Narrows
  Indian Head Rapid
  Warm Springs Confluence
  Warm Springs Rapid
  Horse Trough Rapid

This is one of the "busier" maps of the entire selection of maps for this project.  Many of the topics and highpoints here can be discussed nowhere else.  Shotgun and the Sunbeam-Yankee Fork complex are the prime example.  Crafting short, succinct descriptions for many of the features in this stretch will be challenging.

We believe that the Mormon Bend RAP description should be aired on the preceding map page.  This will provide a little additional space for the descriptive needs of the features exclusive to this map page.

Likewise, there is a prominent geothermal feature just up river from Basin Creek.  We would recommend leaving this feature out.  We would, however, recommend a note about the Sunbeam Hot Springs due to the geothermal resource's role in the siting and construction of Sunbeam Dam.  If not for the Sunbeam Hot Springs, Sunbeam Dam may never have existed!  Likewise, this is a great place to mention the CCC.

Note that the location of the Sunbeam Dam Rapid on the map is incorrect.  It should be denoted on the last bend immediately up river from the Yankee Fork confluence.  The dam is hardly 100-150 yards from the Yankee Fork confluence.

In addition, the note should say Sunbeam Dam, Class IV rather than just Class IV.  Sunbeam Dam and Shotgun are easily the two most prominent rapids on the river above the Yankee Fork.

Note also that the Elk Creek RAP is one of the busiest and most heavily used RAPs on The Upper Salmon River.  The legend needs to show a boat access icon.

We question whether the Yankee Fork RAP should show a boat access icon.  Access here is very problematic and generally suitable only for those with kayaks and other small, lightweight water craft.  We certainly would not want to give the impression that this RAP is on the same order as the other more developed and spacious RAPs.

We also question the seemingly random uses of the yellow bar spanning the river channel.  Generally, we assume the yellow bar to denote something larger than a riffle but smaller than a rated and named rapid. There are numerous such riffles between Mormon Bend and Torrey's Hole.  None particularly merit any special notation.  Likewise, if some are noted and similar ones are not noted, this may be very confusing to the new or casual river user.

We can easily see how descriptions relating to Robinson Bar and the Narrows could be placed on the following page, thereby freeing up valuable space for discussion of the other features.

This is going to be a very difficult page to put together.  It will be up to the BLM Staff to decide which of the features merits mention and/or description on the page that accompanies this map.

There is easily at least two and probably three potential pages of narrative that could accompany this map.

If we were prioritize the narratives to accompany this page (in order of appearance) we would chose:

Basin Creek  (there is no longer baoting access here)
Riffles above Rough Creek
Rough Creek Bridge (heavily used informal RAP, often by commercial outfitters)
Riffles above Shotgun
Shotgun (Extensive description)
Sunbeam Hot Springs
Riffles above Sunbeam Dam
Sunbeam Dam (extensive description)
Yankee Fork confluence & RAP
USGS gauge
Elk Creek RAP
Piece of Cake (short description)
The O'Brien complex
Indian Riffles
Approach to The Narrows.

We would then put everything related to Robinson Bar and The Narrows on the next map page.

Unfortunately, there is too much going on with the map to include any meaningful geology.  Perhaps Falma Moye could find a way to squeeze in a one-liner here and there if space allows on this page.

Robinson Bar - Thompson Creek

The secondary issue with the way these maps break is the presence of the  large Green Dot at Robinson Bar and the accompanying mileage marker.  This seems to imply there is river access here.  Below The Narrows there is an informal kayakers' river access point.

We took the time to hike this precarious, sketchy, steep trail on July 31, 2012.  As a former whitewater kayaker who has used many informal access points, I would have to say this is one of the worst of the genre.  Only a few very fit individuals would attempt to carry their boat and gear up the steep, slippery, rubble-strewn trails.  I might be able to imagine a couple of buff 20-something people carrying an inflatable kayak up that trail but, frankly, even that's a stretch of the imagination.  We do know that some kayakers use this informal access but to give it the same status as a RAP as the other major river access points is very misleading.

It is worth noting that the SRNA river brochure makes note of this kayakers' access point.  We would strongly recommend taking a first hand look at this so-called access point before deciding whether to mention it in this project's narrative.

Robinson Bar itself is strictly off limits and is some of the most restricted parcels of private property on The Salmon River.  Once a boater has floated past the Lower O'Brien area there is no relatively easy egress from the river until reaching The River Company's licensed and permitted lunch spot.

As you may know, during salmon spawning season, the SNRA requires licensed outfitters and the general public to actually portage a 1.5 mile stretch of The Salmon River encompassing Indian Riffles.  The egress back into the river after this portage is just above the Robinson Bar private property boundary.

The river takes a sharp left turn to enter The Narrow and the whitewater action begins almost immediately.  We ran this stretch twice in June and July 2012 to better acquaint our self with its features.  We also talked with various river guides and the nomenclature for features within this area.

The Narrows is a very busy piece of water and the named features appear very quickly one after another. Due to the nature of Idaho Hwy 75 above, it is not practical to attempt to scout The Narrows from the road.  One may use two very small pullouts to attempt to see various aspects of The Narrows.  This area deserves every bit of its Class III rating here.  A swim through The Narrows could easily become very problematic.

We think this portion of the river should receive a thorough discussion on this particular map page (as opposed to the preceding page).  If photos can be obtained from one of the commercial outfitters they would be useful in helping describe the section.  We took various still and video cameras with us on both our trips but the water was far too busy to attempt to deploy and use a camera.  This stretch deserves your full attention as a paddler and there is minimal margin for error.

The history of Robinson Bar itself may well be worth discussing here.  Likewise, there is a great old photo of the early highway through The Narrow back from the 1920's or 1930's.  If we have correctly understood the various legends about Robinson Bar, it was a very popular place back in the gold mining era.  We have heard that the famous late Sen. Frank Church and his wife, Bethine, was actually married outdoors in 1947 at Robinson Bar.  His visits to his wife's Family Place may have had a great deal to do with his passion for his historic efforts to create the SNRA.  We'd recommend against noting anything about Robinson Bar's current ownership.

Warms Springs Creek might be worth a mention, as may be the largest tributary between the Yankee Fork and the East Fork.  (Neither Slate Creek nor Thompson Creek appear to come close to Warm Creek's volume.)

After exiting The Narrows there are numerous small, user-friendly riffles.  Boaters will pass by a string of various lunch stop spots used by special permit from the SNRA in conjunction with the operation of licensed commercial whitewater rafting outfitters.

After passing the last of these small, informal lunch stop spots, boaters will see the relatively new Snyder Springs RAP.  This is an extremely steep, engineered boat ramp.  From what we have been able to learn, the ramp was put in place as an egress location for commercial outfitters so to avoid salmon spawning restrictions at and near Torrey's Hole.  During our visits in the summer of 2012 we did not observe anyone using the unusual boat ramp.  Likewise, we received various information as it the purpose of the unusual ramp.

We strongly recommend extensive consultation with SNRA Staff to determine the purpose of the Snyder Springs RAP and whether it is intended to at-large public usage.

The river is very mellow between Snyder Springs and Torrey's Hole.

Torrey's Hole will need some possible extensive description as it is one of the busiest RAPs and there are some strict parking regulations in place.  We improperly parked vehicles ticketed in July 2012.

Comments will also be necessary about the change in the river's characteristics below Torrey's   Torrey's is generally where drift boaters often begin to use The Salmon River.

As the river approaches Slate Creek, the Canyon of The Salmon undergoes extensive structural, geologic and topographic change.  Slate Creek marks the approximate boundary of the down river end of the Salmon River Canyon.  These changes will be the perfect place for some extensive geologic commentary by Falma Moye.

The Slate Creek drainage off of Railroad Ridge is also definitely worth mentioning.  It is quite likely that glaciers in the Boulder White Cloud Mountains drained both into Sawtooth Valley as well as Slate, Holman, French Creeks and the East Fork to give the Salmon River huge boost in water volume.  The entire general characteristic of the river's ancestral channel changes beginning at Slate Creek and continuing down river beyond the East Fork.

Below Slate Creek the Salmon goes under the new Slate Creek bridge and passes the SNRA Whiskey Flat Campground.  There is no developed river access at Whiskey Flat but small inflatable boats could be put in or taken out there.

There is a BLM road that intersects ID Hwy 75 at the up river end of the Slate Creek bridge.  This road leads down river on river left to some official SNRA dispersed camp sites near Holman Hole.

After leaving Whiskey Flat, the river bends far away from the highway and then rejoins the road before carving one of the river's most geometrically extreme hairpin turns under some picturesque geology.

Afterwards the river reaches the bedrock rampart of Holman Hole.  This is an area that could deserve extensive geologic interpretation.  It is also across from Holman Campground.  Although the actual SNRA boundary is situated more than a mile down river, the SNRA's gateway information sign boards are located on the backside of Holman Hole.

The river flow at Holman Hole is definitely worth a mention as high water.  When we paddled this stretch June 19, 2012, there were two large and treacherous boils spinning at Holman Hole.  The unwary could easily capsize a boat here.

The next point of interpretation is Thompson Creek and Thompson Creek bridge.  This is the river's first encounter with extensive riverside residential development.  Likewise, the Thompson Creek bridge has a habit in high water of catching large trees in the mid-channel pier.  On June 19 there was scant passage around three full length trees lodged here.

There is an informal river access point on private property up river from the Thompson Creek bridge.  We doubt this access should be mentioned in the guide.  Thompson Creek is a USGS gauged side stream.

This summer we did extensive research on the precise geographic center of the state of Idaho.  it might be worth mentioning the point on the Salmon River where one passes closest to this point.  It is only a few miles north of the river in the Torrey's Hole vicinity. The long/lats of this spot have been thoroughly vetted by various Idaho GIS professionals.

Since this marks the end of The Salmon River through the SNRA it is worth noting a few things here.  Back in 2010 when we were signed on to help the BLM create a mimle-by-mile river guide, we were told the SNRA did not want to be a part of the project.  Hence, we started our field work at the first formal public RAP below the SNRA--Squaw Creek.

When we were signed back on May 8th as BLM Volunteers, we were told that the SNRA wanted "in" on the mile-by-mile river guide project.  We made numerous inquiries into "who" at the SNRA would be the contact person for this project.  We were told that the Ranger Barbara Garcia would be the only person to talk to. We were unable to establish contact with her.  Frankly, we have no idea if indeed the SNRA wishes to be involved in this project.  It would behoove the BLM Staff to make the proper official inquiries as to whether the SNRA indeed wishes to be involved.  We spent considerable time and effort doing field work in the SNRA for possible inclusion in this guide project.  The SNRA does have their only, very simply brochure describing the river with their administrative boundaries.

While we personally believe their section of river should be included in this project, it's definitely worth checking out on the part of BLM Staff.  We did not believe it was appropriate for us as volunteers to go beyond a fwe informal inquiries as to what is the status of the SNRA's interest in this project.







Thompson Creek - East Fork

(NOTE: There is significant overlap between the Robinson's Bar-Thompson Creek map and this one.  Some of the items below could be moved to the map section above.)

Yankee Fork Ranger Station
  CCC Camp
Drainages from Railroad Ridge
Thompson Creek
Thompson Creek Bridge
French Creek alluvial fan
  Possible glacial geology note
Squaw Creek
  RAP
  Bridges
  Kid's Pond
Thompson Creek Mining Co. bridge
  Moly Mine note
Talus above Ice Corner
Ice Corner
  Lichens
  Geology
  Rapid
Canyon above Clayton
Old Bridge abutments
Clayton
  Kinnikinic Creek
  Slag Pile
  CAHA
Clayton Cemetery Riffle
Old 1934 (?) bridge
Spud Creek
Powerline
East Fork
  East Fork RAP
  East Fork Recreation Area
  Extent of East Fork watershed
  Note glacial alluvial boulders
Crystal

General notes: We spent some time taking as close a look as possible at the French Creek confluence area from ID Hwy 75.  French Creek near the highway is all private property and strictly off limits so we couldn't get the close up views we desired.  We formed an opinion that French Creek was a major tributary during the glacial melt phase.  We think the small bluffs flanking the confluence area are remnants of very large glacial alluvium outflow.  Further, we are of the opinion that this large fluvial input from the Railroad Ridge area, as well as Squaw Creek from the north, gave the area from the USFS Yankee Fork Work Center to Ice Corner its distinctive characteristics.  This informal opinion will need to be confirmed or rejected by professional geologists, of course.  However, if it is correct, it will make a very interesting piece of interpretive material for this otherwise seemingly unremarkable area.

We think it's worth mentioning the Squaw Creek Kid's pond even though it is not right on the river.  it's very close to the Squaw Creek RAP and is reputedly one of the very best kid fishing spots on the entire Upper Salmon River.

There are a lot of opportunities for photos to accompany this page.  One is the old sawmill that once existed where Old Sawmill Station is now located.  Another is an aerial view of the moly mine nearby.  The CCC camp is practically a "must include" photo for this page.  The Ice Corner area has a lot of potential for a photo.  The Clayton Area Historical Assn. has already given verbal permission to utilize their extensive archives of historical photos of the area.  A picture of the historic smelter is a "must include" for this page.

At some point withing this portion of the guide, the development of the highway needed to be discussed.  Our research has shown that this was once one of the earliest few actual major highways in Idaho.  it received funding and attention from the Legislature even before the era of the automobile.  The full story is, of course, far beyond the scope of this river guide.  However, at least some mere mention of the skeletal facts would be appropriate.

Extensive comments could be made about Clayton and the Clayton area.  It is up to BLM to decide what level of emphasis to put on this historic community.

There is a nice riffle across Hwy 75 from the Clayton Cemetery.  It's worth a mention.  The river is pretty straight forward down to the East Fork.

One of the biggest issues for the BLM Staff regarding this river guide lies at the East Fork RAP immediately below the existing Hwy 75 bridge on river left. This is a pivotal RAP that faces a very uncertain future due to the impending construction of the new Hwy 75 bridges in the months ahead.

We highly recommend retaining mention and description of this RAP.  To ignore it could possibly cause cause confusion within the river community.  Obviously, a full description of the East Fork Recreation Area is merited.

Just how material to include regarding the East Fork watershed is debatable.  It is one of The Salmon River's largest tributaries and obviously played a significant role in the glacial melt era.

We would highly recommend at least some narrative about the East Fork extensive alluvial fan and its composition of such large, symmetrical boulders.

This would also be a logical place to include some narrative about the bull trout.  When we volunteered out at Bowery for four summers, we learned that the East Fork headwaters are one of their favored areas.  Indeed, we observed huge bull trout being trapped and monitored at the IDFG East Fork weir.





East Fork - Bayhorse

Some of the material mentioned on the preceding Thompson Creek-East Fork page could be used here instead of there, especially potential extensive discussion of the East Fork and Crystal.

The large rampart on river right below the rock quarry is a likely candidate for a geologic comment.

It is very important to note here that the river once again takes a huge and major directional shift.  Since Stanley is has been flowing largely eastward,  With the ancestral inflow of the East Fork, its direction change once again to mostly northerly trending all the way to North Fork, some 100 miles down river.

DUe to the general lack of prominent and compelling on-river features, this page would be a good one on which to discuss the Challis Volcanics, the andesite lava of Deadman Hole. the special Malm Gulch Area and other topics of geologic importance and relevance.  By the time this guide is published the Deadman Hole improvements will be complete and definitely worthy of an extensive mention.

It would be a good idea to at least mention the funding sources for the BLM improvements of these vital public river access areas.  The BLM has really gone the extra mile in improving river access and the new Deadman Hole is a shining example of such proactive work.  Since this is the first major BLM RAP appearing in this guide, it would be a good place to explain the BLM's perspectives on improving river access.  Time to toot your horn here, folks!

There's a lot that can be said about Deadman Hole but I'd rather the guide simply focus on the material that's already on the interpretive sign board.  It's the main "backstory" of Deadman Hole and needs to be retold in the guide in case some boaters float past Deadman and don't get to read the sign.

There are some waypoints noted below that may or may not be of interest to include in the guide.  The diversions below East Fork isn't big enough to cause anyone a problem so I'd recommend against making a big deal about it.  The diversion above Bayhorse, on the other hand, juts far enough into the river to be a problem is someone is trying to pul toward the Bayhorse RAP too early.

I suppose it would be a good idea to mention the Bayhorse park in conjunction with noting the Bayhorse bridge.

I don't know that discussing Broken Wing Ranch's situation is within the scope of this guide but that's up to BLM Staff to decide.  You definitely want to mention that great bedrock outcrop in the river as noted on the waypoint map. We have come around to the opinion that potential camps ought not be mentioned.  The guide should stick to describing the river in terms of day use.  To begin to describe it in terms of potential overnight use really opens a potentially bottomless can of worms.

When we did the fieldwork in 2010, we thought that marking possible camps was a good idea.  However, there are too many issues with descriptions of camp sites.  We say "leave that one out of the guide."

The Bayhorse RAP deserves a very nice description.

Bayhorse - Challis Bridge

Bayhorse to Challis Bridge is the only portion of The Salmon River we did not actually boat or float.  We consider the diversion structure located near Hwy 75 Milepost 239 to be too unsafe to risk.  We came close to paddling it in July 2012 but did not have a partner or safety boat or shuttle at the time.  We know from many local stories and anecdotes that this hazard is navigated by various individuals.  Frankly, we do think it is prudent to "mess around" with that hazard.

As far as we are concerned it is one of the major hazards on The Salmon River below the SNRA's whitewater rapids.  We spent considerable time in 2010 attempting to obtain various waypoints from the shoreline.

This is another page where geology is king.   Falma already has written some great stuff about this area. The best natural feature to write about here would be the mountain sheep.  There is a very appealing passage in the 1937 WPA Idaho guide that would be appropriate here, too

The entrance into Round Valley needs to be duly noted.  An extensive description of how Round Valley came into being would be appropriate on here or the next map page.  We would leave the narrative on Challis until the next page.  However, this would be an appropriate place to mention The Land of The Yankee Fork State Park and possibly the purported buffalo jump.

The second lower diversion is nowhere near the hazard or threat of the first diversion.  The second diversion can easily be avoided since it is easily visible from far upstream and since the river channel is quite wide with a slower current speed.

The Bayhorse to Challis Bridge is all about geology and sheep and Round Valley.

The informal access at the Highway 75 bridge might be mentioned for safety purposes.

You can't really tell someone NOT to boat any particular stretch of river.  I'm not really sure how to approach the description of the upper diversion hazard.  I think that whatever is written about that spot needs to be written very carefully and even perhaps inspected by government attorneys to make sure that it doesn't say the wrong thing.  Anytime you start talking about man made hazards you are stepping into potentially very dangerous editorial areas.  I definitely wouldn't want to be the one who said, "This is what you say."  Approach description of that hazard with great caution and involve as many people as possible in deciding whether the wording is fair and appropriate.

Note that this map page is the only one that shows Challis Bridge.  There is a confusing overlap here that occurs roughly in the middle of the stream braiding down river from the Challis Bridge RAP.

See notes accompanying the next map section.

Pennal Gulch - Watts Bridge

This map section begins at the overlap point with the preceding map--somewhere amid the braided river channel of Round Valley.  A discussion of stream channel braiding is fully warranted here, if not on the preceding page.  There are really only four areas where the river braids in the Stanley-North Fork.  One is Round Valley, the second is Salmon Valley, the third is very small section between Tower Rock and Red Rock, the fourth is near Wagonhammer RV park about two miles up river from North Fork.  Neither of the last two areas are anywhere near the extensive braiding of Round and Salmon Valleys.

We envision an extensive discussion of stream channel braiding on this page.  This would be a good place to summarize the history of Challis.  It is also a candidate for discussion of riparian habitat.  However, the Shoup Bridge map page is also a candidate for riparian discussion.  Perhaps this first evidence of stream braiding would be the best place to discuss it.

The only other things to mention on this page are private property issues; the Challis Hot Springs, the geology of the cliffs at Pennal Gulch, McNabb Point, exiting Round Valley, cottonwood blow downs, Challis Creek, Morgan Creek, the diversion below the Bed & Breakfast and Watts Bridge.





Watts Bridge - Deer Gulch

This is Section #2 of the popular "Cocktail Stretch" between Challis Bridge and Watts Bridge.  The Challis-Watts stretch is tied with the Shoup Bridge-Morgan Bar stretch as the most popular non-whitewater stretches between Stanley and North Fork.  Both of those stretches are also generally the farthest from the highway.

Here are the topics for this section:

Watts Bridge RAP and camping area
Geology of cliffs down river from Watts Bridge
What are mountain peaks on horizon--names & geology
Island below cliffs
Wild Turkeys
Small canyon-ette geology
Eagle Rock Rapid
Cottonwood Recreation Area
Iron bridge
Large chunk of bedrock in channel by B&B
Ellis area
Pahsimeroi River
Pahsimeroi Fish Hatchery
Bald eagles
Osprey
Deer Gulch RAP



Colston - Kilpatrick

Topics:

Cronks Canyon/Royal Gorge
Mountain sheep
Cow Creek
Wind erosion above Colston
Colston Cliffs
Colston RAP
Note about staying far right approaching the small Colston Eddy
Peregrine falcons
Kilpatrick RAP

If material runs short on this page, it might be a good place to discuss how the river corridor was settled in pioneer days while working in a mention of the Homestead Act.  Basically, land straddling the confluence of any small tributary water source was homesteaded rather early in the pioneer settlement timeline.

The geology of Cronks Canyon is very interesting and well worth an extensive discussion.




Kilpatrick - Waddington Creek

The stretch between Kilpatrick is pretty non-descript.  There are some geological points of interest along the way but nothing much in the way of on-river features to discuss.  It would be good to note the confluences of the various creeks, especially Iron Creek since it is the largest of the side streams in this stretch.

Elk Bend deserves a nice description, especially the generosity of the Elk Bend Fire Department.  Their agreement to help create a RAP here is only a mere 5 years old.

The area with the most potential for extensive description is from Lime Creek down to the Twin Peaks Bridge. The icons for Lime Creek should not show camping.  There is no camping potential there.  Parking is minimal.

What is more interesting about the Lime Creek spot is that it is the upper margin of an enormous ancient debris flow.  There is a Class I-II rapid there that has resulted from remnants of this debris flow being exposed in the river channel.

Down river form lime creek are the largest collection in-channel rocks along The Salmon River from Stanley to North Fork.  The geology of river left is columnar basalt. The rocks in the river are quartzite.  They appear to have been part of the enormous ancient debris flow which presumably broke loose from Gold Bug Ridge towering high above the river to the east.  The geology here is fascinating.  At low flows the rocks can be a tricky navigation hazard and they also deserve discussion from that perspective.  They apepar to be somewhat easier to navigate at higher flows.

Of course, there needs to be some discussion of Dugout Dick.  Even though the BLM has removed all of Dugout Dick's caves BLM efforts are underway to describe and interpret Dugout Dick's life along the river.  The late Mr. Zimmerman trujly deserves some mention in this river guide as well.

Waddington Creek is a very minimalist RAP suitable only for the most "rough & ready" river runners.  It needs to be pointed out the road (if oyu can call it that) into the Waddington Creek area is very steep, rough and slippery even in dry conditions.  Turn around radius is nearly non-existent and only one or two vehicles parked in this area would create potential gridlock for an incoming vehicle and trailer.

As we understand it, the Twin Peaks bridge has some history.  Apparently there was a giant flood in the mid-1950's that washed out the pre-existing bridge (as well as at least one other such bridge).  The Twin Peaks Mine assisted in locating a replacement bridge and was instrumental in getting it installed.  That's the gist of what we have heard.  The story bears further checking and research as it could be quite an interesting vignette.


Waddington Creek - Eightmile

This stretch has ample opportunity for geology discussion.  The biggest topic of discussion is one of The Salmon River's major hazards-a nearly-river-wide bedrock ledge.

Back in 2010, we were totally unaware of this ledge and nearly caught by surprise.  Luckily, it shows a horizontal fall line and that tipped us off.  The ledge is not part of a diversion structure--it is a naturally occuring chunk of bedrock ledge practically spanning the river.

It is neceswsary to go as far left as possible to avoid going over this steep and rough ledge.  We talked to a woman at Heald's RV park who actually did go over the ledge in a raft.  She said everyone was banged up pretty good but no one had any broken bones, just cuts and bruises.  At high water this ledge could be exceptionally dangerous.

We did take photos of the ledge in 2010 and will continue to attempt to find them.  It would be possible to get a photo from the river side by taking the Lake Creek Road off of the Williams Creek Road.  This hazard deserves a prominent mention in the river guide.

The creative partnership that helped bring Eleven Mile RAP into existence needs to be discussed.  WIthout IDT's participation, it's possible this key RAP would exist.

There is no river access for water craft at Eight Mile.  This needs to be explained.  The various rocks and another ledge in this vicinity deserve mention.

Now let's move upstream to Camp Creek.  This is a major potential RAP and needs to be noted on the guide.  There is a Class II rapid not far below Camp Creek that should be noted as well.

Note that on our waypoint sheet below there is the number "45"  that's where we used the BLM Trimble GPS to find the precise intersection of teh 45th parallel with The Salmon River.  The IDT sign denoting the 45th parallel is considerably far away from the actual point.  We think the location of the esoteric spot is worth noting.
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As one nears the Eight Mile area, one enters the Salmon Valley.  We think the entrance and exits to both Round and Salmon Valleys ought to be noted on the guide.  Likewise, we made a note of the point where one can see the Continental Divide for the first time.  It is a majestic view and well worth calling attention to.

There are numerous in-channel rocks in the eight and seven mile area.
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Eightmile - Lemhi Hole

Lots to talk about in this stretch.  As the river bends away from the road below Eight Mile there are some pretty gnarly chunks of rip-rap on river left. They can easily be avoided but they should be mentioned in at least a general sense.

The biggest points of discussion on this map section are:

Shoup Bridge RAP
Cottonwood blow downs
Shoup to Salmon stretch & shuttle
Stream braiding
Riparian
Cliffs
River flood plain
Go left at island above Salmon
Prepare for tight pullout at Island Park RAP
Discuss Island Park in general as well as lower access point
Diversion below US Hwy 93 bridge
Lemhi River/Lemhi Hole

The Shoup Bridge to US Hwy 93 Bridge and the Island Park RAP is one of the mosst popular stretches of river in the lower area described by this guide.  It's a very sweet stretch of river.  Because of the extensive, low-lying flood plain, there is very little sign of residential development.  Likewise, the geology and riparian are spectacular.  There are ample riffles to provide unrated fluffy water.  The shuttle is easily the easiest and quickest of any shuttle on the 150 miles of river that this guide covers.  You can actually walk to a motel, river outfitter, bakery, bars and restaurants directly from the take out.  It's a great stretch of river!

It is VERY important to note "GO LEFT" at the top of the island that is Island Park.  In all but the highest flows, if you go right, you will become marooned in shallow water far from the main river channel.


Lemhi Hole - Tower Rock

Lemhi Hole to Tower Rock really isn't a stretch very many people do "as a discrete stretch." The way it works in the Salmon, Idaho, vicinity is people do "Eleven Mile to Island Park (AKA: Salmon); Shoup Bridge to Island Park; Island Park to Carmen; Island Park to Morgan Bar; Carmen to Tower Rock and Morgan Bar to Tower Rock.

This map shows Lemhi Hole to Tower Rock. The Island Park to Carmen is arguably the most heavily used piece of river described in this guide. Why's that? The water is the most user-friendly for inner tube and flimsy flotation devices.

 We have seen some of the sketchiest flotation devices imaginable here. This is THE most popular stretch for kids to run. Sometimes we have been on this stretch where there are people and watercraft spread out in front and behind as far as we can see. On ideal summer days this is a very congested piece of river. This stretch is so safe, it doesn't matter what you are paddling or whether you even know how to paddle--or even have a paddle--you're going to make it OK to Carmen.

 The map here is very confusing as regard the irrigation diversion upstream from the Carmen Bridge. We recommend removing any indication that there is a river channel taking off from Lemhi Hole and also veering left up river from the lower diversion.  There is only one main river channel in this stretch.  Please simplify it and delete those other channels.

The geology of the cliffs here is a fascinating story.  We definitely want to introduce Lewis & Clark to this guide at Tower Rock so we'd prefer not to mention their route on top of the cliffs here.

Note that IDFG has spent over $350,000 to date acquiriing land and building a new river access point above Carmen Bridge.  The existing access at Carmen Bridge is part of the Access YES program and permission to use the land might be revoked at any time.  IDFG will have the new Carmen site finished long before this guide is printed.  We recommend focusing usage on the new site rather than the existing Carmen Bridge site.

The diversion below Carmen Bridge is not a threat, it's highly visible and easily avoided.  You might mention "stay right" after the diversion.  Morgan Bar is pretty easy to spot from the river and there is a nice small eddy and the take out.  The discussion on Margan Bar would be on how to find it and where to park and so forth.  Once the IDFG Carmen Bridge RAP is fully functional, it's likely that usage of the Morgan Bar RAP will drop significantly as it is well off the highway compared to the new Carmen site.

Thre is a nice Class I riffle below Morgan Bar that deserves mention.  There's not much else to discuss until Tower Rock comes into view.

This would be a good piece of geology to discuss.  Also this is the place to introduce Lewis & Clark since they were obviously so very right near where the RAP is located.  There's lots of potential narrative that can be used for the Tower Rock RAP.

Tower Rock - North Fork

This is one very big stretch of river to compress into a single map page. There will be no lack of narrative material available here.

This is the place to mention that boaters are exiting Salmon Valley and swinging away from the highway into one of the lushed riparian gallery forests on the river.  This is a very wildlife rich area and it's possible to see both elk and moose here.  We did. In fact, a herd of elk galloped in the river in front of our boat.  That might make a real nice photo for this guide.

As the river leaves Salmon Valley is deposits some substantial log jams here and there along this stretch.  The map doesn't adequately show how the river braids itself here.  The braids are not as pronounced as those in Round Valley and between Shoup Bridge and Salmon but they are braids nonetheless.  Boaters need to do some "heads up" paddling in this area to make sure they are entering a viable channel that will not deposit them at the foot of a log jam.

Red Rock is a sweet piece of geology and should be duly noted.  Also since the RAP is a veritable cornucopia of information about Rocky Mountain big horn sheep, it would be agood place to talk about those critters again here. Likewise, the generosity of the Turners might warrant a mention.  It's a great RAP and a very picturesque spot on the river.

The river is pretty straightforward here.  There are some places where boaters need to exercise caution in picking which channel to use.  We suspect the channels change with each runoff season.  What is deep this year might be shallow next year.  This is a heavily fished area for steelhead because of the "breaks" below each of the small gravel bars.  In this type of area, the river reinvents itself after each high water episode.

Discussion needs to focus on

The rock face at the 4th of July RAP
The 4th of July RAP itself
The two iron bridges
The Bobcat Gulch RAP
Wagonhammer RV Park
The different topographical ocntext through which the river flows.
Cottonwood blow downs
The North Fork RAP
A brief mention of the Wild & Scenic River below.

The North Fork RAP is quite a story and deserves some discussion.  As you know, the RAP was once located upriver on the other side of the North Fork.  New owners shut down that RAP.  Boaters were then forced to travel through Deadwater to reach another public access.

Meanwhile new owners aacquired the North Fork Store and approached IDFG about allowing access to a RAP if IDFG would build it.  IDFG negotiated a 25-year lease and built a really first class RAP behind the extensive commercial operation at North Fork.

Saturday, July 14, 2012

About this blog

This blog was created July 14, 2012, for the initial purpose of facilitating assembly of a draft river guide to the Salmon River between Stanley and North Fork, Idaho.  The draft river guide is being put together as a volunteer project for the BLM Challis Field Office.  John Parsons is the principal volunteer working on the project.  This blog has no official connection to the BLM or any other local, state or federal agency or entity of any kind.  The blog is owned by and is the sole responsibility of John Parsons, an individual who lives in Idaho Falls, Idaho.  The purpose of this blog is simply to facilitate the organization of information and illustrations germane to the completion of a working draft document.  When the volunteer project is finished, this blog will probably be dismantled and may be put to use for other purposes.  For more information, you may contact John Parsons via this email: salmonriverguide@gmail.com or by phone at 208-557-9630